
Transmission Properties.” This test approximates the conditions seen by boat cold box
insulation. There are other test methods which involve an air gap between the heat source and
the insulation being tested. These methods will usually overstate the R value added by a radiant
barrier if the results are applied to cold box performance. Thus high R value claims for certain
insulation types may not be untrue according to the test procedures followed, but may not give a
correct picture of the performance of the insulation in a boat cold box.
If a radiant barrier is installed so that there is an air gap between the barrier and the heat
source, some thermal benefit can be gained. An example of an effective use would be as a
blanket covering the food in a partially full box. If a radiant barrier, which is usually a shiny, foil-
like surface, is sandwiched between another solid material, such as fiberglass or plywood, the
heat energy it sees is largely in the form of molecular motion and the heat is rapidly conducted
through the foil.
Insulation Types and Performance
There are some very old boats that have cold boxes built with fiberglass bat insulation, but the
most common type is two part pour-in polyurethane foam. As this foam cures, the cell size
depends on the curing temperature, and is typically not well controlled. This inability to control
the temperature leads to voids that often develop in areas of the pour in foam. It is not unusual
with stock boats to find no insulation at all between the box hull-side liner and the hull, or under
the counter top.
Even if a good thickness of insulation is present, polyurethane foam insulation tends to adsorb
water. Cold boxes that started out with good performance may lose up to two thirds of their
original insulation value if the foam becomes wet from condensation. Other foam types that
share this moisture absorption problem include sheet polyurethane, polyisocyanurate foams, and
molded bead, or expanded polystyrene. Note that this is not just an open or closed cell foam
issue, but depends on the moisture adsorption properties of the resin used to make the foam.
One way to evaluate your existing box insulation for wetness is by drilling a small hole
somewhere at the bottom of the box and checking the insulation space with a cotton swab. If the
swab comes out wet, the original insulation value of your box is compromised. Such a result
would mean that you should consider completely rebuilding your box.
Extruded polystyrene is the best type of foam insulation to use because it doesn’t adsorb
water and will maintain its insulating value indefinitely. Two common brand names are Dow
Square Edge STYROFOAM
®
, often called blueboard, and Owens Corning FOAMULAR 150
®
.
Additional information and sources for the Dow product can be found at
http://www.dow.com/styrofoam/index.htm. You can also reach Dow by phone at 1-800 232
2436. Information and sources for the Owens Corning product can be found at
http://www.owenscorning.com/around/insulation/products/foamular.asp
The Owens Corning phone number is 1-800-GET-PINK.
How much insulation do you need? The tradeoffs are between energy consumption, usable
box volume, and cost. For tropical conditions we recommend a minimum of R-20 for a
refrigerator and R-30 for a freezer. Extruded polystyrene has an R value of about 5 per inch.
This would correspond to an insulation thickness of 4 inches of foam in the reefer and 6 inches in
the freezer.
For a 5 cubic foot reefer, the daily heat loads on a 90ºF average day would look something
like this as insulation thickness increases:
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