MICRO-AIR Artic Air 24 Guía de instalación descargar pdf (Pagina 38)

● Electronic Acoustic Detectors - Not as common as the gas sensing type, these detectors

use a tiny microphone to pick up and amplify the “hiss” of even the smallest of leaks. If

you know what to listen for and have clear direct access to all of the connections they can

be one of the best detection methods.

Advantage - Properly used they are one of the most accurate of all leak detectors. Often

used to confirm the confusing results given by a gas sensor type detector on very small

leaks.

Disadvantage - Experience is helpful in interpreting the results. You need to be able to

place the tip of the sensor (microphone) very near all parts of the joint.

● Observation Of Pressure - In this method, a refrigeration gauge set is attached and the

system pressure is elevated by the addition of refrigerant and/or nitrogen gas (NEVER

USE OXYGEN!). The system is allowed to stabilized and the pressure is noted. After a

period of time (typically 12 to 24 hours) the pressure is checked again. If the system

pressure is constant, there is assumed to be no leak.

Advantage - I thorough way to check for large/moderate leaks in the complete system at

one time.

Disadvantage - Too many variables (ambient temperature, hose quality, Rotalock packing

seal quality, oil/gas absorption, etc.) to reliably check for small leaks. This test can be

helpful but don’t put too much faith in the results.

● Fluorescent Dye - Widely promoted by automobile air conditioning service people, this

dye is sometimes used to find persistent leaks in operating systems. The dye is added to

the refrigerant and glows when exposed to a UV light. DO NOT USE THESE

PRODUCTS. PUTTING FLUORESCENT LEAK DETECTION DYE INTO ANY GLACIER

BAY SYSTEM WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.

Common Leak Checking Methods and Potential Pitfalls

To check for leaks it will be necessary to temporarily elevate the pressure of all of the tubing

which you have run. This can be done by using refrigerant (preferably a high pressure

refrigerant such as R-404a or R-22 but R-134a will also work), dry nitrogen or a combination of

the two. NEVER USE OXYGEN. Obviously, the higher the internal pressure, the easier it will be

to find a leak. However, DO NOT EXCEED 250 PSI when leak checking. If you are going to use

dry nitrogen you will need to use a regulator to limit the pressure to no more than 250 psi.

NOTE: THE ROTALOCK VALVES ON YOUR CONDENSING UNIT SHOULD REMAIN

CLOSED (FRONT-SEATED) DURING THE ENTIRE LEAK CHECKING PROCESS. Do not use

the refrigerant charge in your condensing unit for leak checking. Doing so will leave your system

undercharged and contaminated with air.

Be aware that even among professional refrigeration installers, there exists a surprising amount

of confusion over the seemingly simple process of checking a system for leaks. This confusion

is generated by a lack of understanding of the physical processes which impact the two most

common leak checking methods.

Method #1

This is the most popular professional method of leak checking and is even described and

recommended by the EPA. In Method #1, a small amount of HFC-404a, R-22 or other

refrigerant gas is added to the system. The reason the refrigerant gas is used is to provide an

agent which can be detected by an electronic gas detector. To raise the internal pressure and

make small leaks more apparent, a “back-charge” of nitrogen gas is added which is sufficient to

elevate the internal tubing pressure to 250 PSI. The electronic gas detector is then used to

search for leaks around the joints and connections.

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