Tube connection basics
Now that you have installed all the major components you are ready to make your copper tubing
runs. Running the copper tubing correctly is key to achieving not only a professional-looking
installation, but one that permits your system to operate efficiently and reliably for many years.
Be sure to read and understand this section BEFORE starting to bend your tubing. Once you do
get started, patience (and extra tubing) is the key to success. Remember that once the tubing is
bent it "work hardens" and will resist any further manipulation. If tubing is improperly bent or
kinked during installation you will be far better off to remove it and start again with new tubing
than to try to "make do" with the old piece.
The Micro HPS is designed to be installed using soldered connections. Soldering is both faster
and more reliable then flare and compression connections. Additionally, soldered connections
permit the tubing to be run more tightly next to corners and surfaces since no wrench access is
required. (Surfaces can be temporarily protected from heat with a wet rag.) A very limited
number of “flare” connections are maintained to enable the filter/dryer and expansion valve(s) to
be easily replaced in the field should the need ever arise. Installers are cautioned to:
1. Use only Harris Stay-Brite #8 solder on all connections. DO NOT USE ANY
SOLDER/BRAZE WHICH REQUIRES THE USE OF AN ACETYLENE TORCH. An acetylene
torch should never be used to install a Glacier Bay system. (Exception - Canadian and some
European jurisdictions may require the use of high temperature braze materials).
(This is a Prestart Checkout Item)
2. Never add flare or compression (“Swagelok”) fittings in the middle of tubing runs. Experience
has shown that these often start leaking over time and can end up being a headache for years to
come. (This is a Prestart Checkout Item)
3. Read and follow instructions on making “T” connections to ensure that no oil-traps are
created. (This is a Prestart Checkout Item)
Installing Ball Valves
Ball valves are included in your installation kit.
They are installed in order to isolate the
condensing unit from the system in case you
need to swap out the system. The ball valves
are soldered onto the ½" suction and 1/4"
discharge refrigerant tubes coming out of the
condensing unit. The discharge ball valve is
3/8" and connects with the two 3/8 x 1/4 fitting
reducers. Since they are biflow valves,
direction does not matter. They should be
installed as close to the condensing unit as
possible. Refer to the Troubleshooting
section at the end of this manual for more
information.
Planning your tubing runs
The Micro HPS accommodates many different box configurations and layouts. It is impractical to
Page 18
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